There and Back Again by D.A.Webb

Eight o'clock we were cleared to leave the ship. Fifteen minutes later we were "just sittin' on the dock of the bay. Wastin' time". Unbelievable!  Past experiences indicated departure would take about ninety minutes. We had to leave the room on deck seven, catch an elevator to deck two, scan the sea pass card leaving the ship, navigate the terminal to customs, clear customs, turn in our passports to Royal Caribbean and locate a place to be picked up. Each step typically has waiting lines. Today no lines, we simply fast tracked everything. Friends Juan and Carlos were picking us up. No Royal Caribbean excursion for us today, Juan had something special planned. The Sunday morning air was cool but pleasant and LA traffic was non-existent. In no time we reached our destination north east of the city, Mission San Gabriel Arcangel. Founded in 1771, the complex is home to California's fourth historic mission. We spent hours enjoying the church, gardens and ...

Along with the two remaining ports in Mexico, Puerto Quetzal is among our last excursions in Latin America. Having never visited Guatemala, we weren't sure what to expect, but figured it would be similar to our other ports in South America. Although most seemed to have similar backgrounds and social issues, all were exciting experiences with unique cultural differences. Today's excursion was long, so we were up early, well rested, full of energy and ready to go.  Both Joan and I are chronologically enhanced and not in the best of shape. For this reason we avoid strenuous excursions like Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls and opt for choices better matching our capabilities. This is not an easy decision, but given our situation, it is the best and definitely wise choice.  The day began with a ninety minute bus ride to Antigua Guatemala and transfer to a smaller bus. The second bus took us deeper into the city for a drop-off. About five hours later, a different bus would pick us, ...

We arrived early in Puntarenas and had an exciting excursion planned. Instead I opted for breakfast in bed and had room service deliver. Not just the typical hot coffee and Danish for me. When you do room service, order only the finest. I am enjoying soft room temperature food (aka cold oatmeal) with plenty of cool liquids (aka apple juice). No strenuous excursions, tropical sun or heated saunas on the schedule either. Today it's time to relax in the room enjoying moist warm compresses on the left upper jaw. Welcome to the post extraction instructions day two. In all seriousness, recovery is going well and the pain is manageable. I am so thankful there were no complications and Dr. Nathaly was here to address my dental issue. Be sure to check in tomorrow for more excitement on the post extraction world cruise saga.

Enjoyed an afternoon of classic walkabout street photography with a splash of architecture to add perspective.

Today's tour is less about culture and more about nature as we ventured into Paracas National Reserve. Like so many of our South American ports, Serenade shares the port with cargo vessels and buses shuttle passengers between ship and customs. Obviously this is for safety concerns, but they probably anticipated my getting lost in the maze of stacked cargo containers.  Once on the tour bus, we exited the port and expected to see a busy metropolis. We saw nothing but sand and sky. We were in the desert headed for Paracas National Reserve.  We chose this tour based on the reserve's unique seashore. I had never experienced an interaction between desert and ocean and figured it would be a lesson in extremes. There are many challenges. This is 'Tour Photography' which is much like 'Street Photography' in that the photographer has no control over light, subject or time of day. Today the main subjects are desert and ocean. Both receive harsh mid day sun. Both ...

Today's excursion was a cultural tour to Codpa Village. The bus ride was enjoyable and at times seemed like we were traveling into the past. As we drove towards the mountains, we entered the Atacama Desert and after two hours reached an elevation of 7,076 feet and the hidden valley containing Codpa village. The village's central structure is a 16th century Spanish church surrounded by additional buildings completing the village of about 1,000 residents. Traditionally they were self-sufficient, but now days rely on weekly resupply runs for additional necessities. Their local school provides primary education for the village kids and those in surrounding areas. The guest students arrive each Monday by bus, spend the week attending school and return home on Friday. Graduating students often leave the community seeking opportunities outside those found in the community. The 16th century Church of San Martin de Tours is the main village structure and one of many important mis...

With the ship docked in Valparaiso, our excursion headed inland to Chile's Capitol and largest city, Santiago. It had everything we learned to expect in South America, but what caught my eye was the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago. Despite many earthquakes and wars, the current structure looked immaculate with no signs of disrepair. It was obviously old, well respected and maintained, but why?  The current Metropolitan Cathedral was completed in 1800 and is probably the fifth and possibly the seventh structure in that location. In any case, it all began in 1541 when the first structure was built and later destroyed that same year. Given the current Cathedral's immaculate condition and past reconstruction efforts, Christianity is obviously well accepted and an important part of the community. Why is this so and how did it happen? The answer is linked to Spanish colonization.  Spain's obvious colonization goals were to extract gold and silver from the Americas, stim...

Despite Punta Arenas' weather forecast not looking favorable, we again headed to port in hopes of improvement. Shortly before arrival, local authorities closed the port to all ships. Not to be undone, the Captain put plan B into effect. Although I have never been to Punta Arenas, I doubt it could top the day's new activities.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world. Originally inhabited by indigenous peoples like the Yaghan, it later became a penal colony in the early 20th century. Over time, Ushuaia transformed into a hub for exploration and tourism, known for its stunning natural landscapes and proximity to Antarctica. It officially became a city in 1985, and today, it continues to attract visitors seeking adventure and unique experiences in the southernmost region of South America.

On our first day in Ushuaia we caught a catamaran and ventured 40 miles east to Martillo Island on the Beagle Channel. The channel is part of the south American fjord system and serves as a major east west shipping artery between the Atlantic an Pacific Oceans. Today we explored the channel's natural beauty and wildlife. The scenery was outstanding and included clear blue waters, high ragged mountains, snowy peaks and islands teaming with wildlife. During our short four hour cruise we visited several penguin rookeries and sighted Magellanic, Gentoo and King penguins. Some of the same islands also hosted sea lions and seals busily relaxing on the rocks or playing in the surf. There was never a dull moment. If the skies weren't showcasing cormorants and sea gulls, the seas were showcasing whales and dolphins. Ushuaia is a highly recommended destination teaming with natural beauty and wildlife.

The forecast for Stanley, Falkland Islands called for high winds making tender operations dangerous. In hopes the weather might improve, we traveled to Stanley, but upon arrival found conditions were still not favorable. Our visit was cancelled and we headed onward to Cape Horn.

The Puerto Madryn excursion was all about the ‘Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery’. Our tour guide Claudea and driver Richard were a great team teaching us about the area's history, culture and people. There was definitely ‘Something Special’ in the narrative, but for me, remained elusive until much later. More on that in the next post, but now it is time for the penguins. Punta Tombo is home to the Magellanic Penguin and their largest breeding colony in the world. Current estimates indicate 210,000 adult pairs mate yearly.  Males arrive to build nests in September.  Females arrive in October to check the nests and if unacceptable change mates.  The couples produce two chicks of which only one survives. Those not succumbing to the elements or predators have a life expectancy of 30 years. The Rookery is not a manmade or controlled environment. It is the birds natural breeding grounds of which we are visitors. For this reason, there are strict rules of engagement. All visit...

The tour began with a drive from Argentina's largest city, Buenos Aires to the Tigre Delta region. The area is unique with it's many lowland islands and a community of homes on stilts. With only rivers and no roads, one of the unique challenges for the community is receiving common goods and services from the mainland. This is primarily accomplished by specialty vessels include but are not limited to supermarket boats, bottled water boats, taxi boats, police boats, ambulance boats, garbage boats, school bus boats, etc. Basically everything required for daily life is delivered by a flotilla of shallow draft specialty boats or your own private boat. Not many years ago the Delta's livelihood was agrarian based. This changed when city folks, seeking a simpler life, rediscovered the Delta region. The area soon transformed into a weekend getaway featuring short-term rentals offering peace, quiet and an assortment of water activities. The area adapted and has been transformed i...

Today we chose "Birdwatching in the Wetlands of Montevideo" as our excursion. We knew serious birders prefer early mornings and late evenings, but we aren't that serious and booked the tour. Our guide, Adrian was not only knowledgeable and enthusiastic, but also a pleasure to be around. We visited a wetland pond, lake and estuary beach all while being treated to refreshing water, fruits and snacks. In all, the group spotted and identified 68 different species in four short hours. Adrian would hear a bird song, identify the species, play the appropriate bird call coaxing it out, scope the bird and then present information from his birding manual. We all took turns peeking through his scope. He spotted birds in the bush most of us had problems locating even with his help. He was also proficient with birds in flight. Joan figured he could spot one approaching from Africa. We learned about mating habits, nesting techniques, migration patterns and probably things the bird...

If you have been following along, one might think I am really down on Brazil and her people. Not true. Let me put the previous posts into perspective. This was my first trip to Brazil and it reminded me of Cuba. I wanted to know why both countries seemed similar? What happened in Brazil and why did it happen? Are the issues being addressed? What is slowing Brazil's progress? Many of the lingering concerns are related to Brazil's military dictatorship from 1964 to 1985. The overthrow began with social concerns within factions of the military and conservative civilians. These concerns included perceived communist threats, corruption allegations, economic instability and general social unrest. In 1964, based on the above social concerns the military successfully overthrew the democratically elected President João Goulart. Initially the military intervention was portrayed as necessary to protect democracy and prevent a communist takeover. However, once in power, the milit...

Recife and Fortaleza are colonization sister cities and continue struggling with cultural issues shaping their current social dynamics. Rather than dwelling on these issues, our Recife tour guide reviewed the colonization period and the lasting affects on society. Portuguese colonization began in the early 1500's followed by on going territorial disputes with the Spanish and Dutch. After political turmoil, multiple ruling governments, corruption and a revolution, the populous became distrustful of authorities and governments. We observed this in Fortaleza, when a cathedral on the tour was unexpectedly closed. The guide apologized, but stated "This is what to expect. After all, this is Brazil". We see people in Brazil, like most of Latin America, struggling just to exist. Living conditions are poor with little hope for improvement. They tend to live for today because tomorrow has no guarantee. They are surviving impossible conditions. Given an opportunity, these p...

Fortaleza is northeastern Brazil's largest city with 2.8 million residents. It has a tropical climate, famous sandy beaches and a bustling sea port. The wide range of exports include corn, refined petroleum, seafood, textiles, leather shoes, cashews and fruit. One would expect Fortaleza to be a vibrant and robust metropolis, but outward appearances indicate otherwise. Not unlike several large cities in the United States, Fortaleza has issues. As the middle class diminished, the economic divide between the high society and working class increased. Neighborhoods experienced increased violent crimes usually associated with gangs and drug trafficking. Civic pride was lost. Trash is everywhere. Doors and windows are bared. Structures are covered with graffiti and surrounded by razor wire. To be honest, the city looks old, dirty, tired, uninviting and dangerous. By no means is this situation unique to Fortaleza. As with cities in the United States, the declines are typically a...

Today we were looking forward to visiting Devil's Island, but high seas prevented safe tender operations. Very disappointing, but given the current world situation, this is probably only the first of many itinerary changes for our world cruise. Given we now have another sea day, time to catch up on other activities and give my sea legs time to recover from the Caribbean excursions. Tonight we plan on visiting Giovanni's Table, one of Serenade's specialty restaurants followed by assorted ship Christmas activities.

Grenada is the last and probably the most memorable Caribbean island nation visited on this world cruise. It has a similar heritage and history not unlike others we visited. Yes, I could say it is the spice capital of the world but everyone probably knows that. I could highlight their 1910 foot volcano and rain forest with 160 inches of annual rain, but that can be discovered with a Google search. More importantly, unknown to both you and Google is our Grenadian tour guide "Clever" Trevor. Trevor talked about much in those four short hours. The following are topics I found memorable and worth sharing. Along our journey Trevor pointed out locations with new homes, areas of new industries and even new government buildings. What most locals didn't realize is they were financed by the Chinese government. There are no free rides in this world.  He pointed out that was a lot investment and questioned what the Chinese would required in return. We passed a wall with graffit...

Barbados, like other Caribbean islands, experienced early European colonialism and limited natural resources. That said, Barbados did have several unique advantages helping their economic development. One advantage is its rugged terrain. The higher altitudes result in more rain feeding the aquifer. This natural supply of ground water helps enable agriculture and other related industries. Barbados continued to grow their economy to include tourism, finance, fishing, manufacturing and construction making them more self sufficient and a leader in diverse island economies. A less obvious advantage is Barbados always fell under British control. When they became an independent British Commonwealth nation, the people already trusted government and understood the advantages. This trust was demonstrated by our tour guide Neville, who is very proud of his English heritage and current leaders. Like other Caribbean nations we visited, the government recognizes people as a natural resource and ...